Swatch Selections Revised

This week I had to revise my swatch selections. After all that gushing over Amaranth Pink in the previous post, just take a guess which color swatch the factory doesn’t make anymore. Arrrgh. Of all the colors in this awesome material that is no longer in production…

The Amaranth Pink was quite possibly my favorite color from the selections. Darn it!

Apparently this happens a lot. Well, good lesson to learn for future endeavors. Leathers production is kind of like department store makeup: cosmetic companies introduce you to something new and it seems to be quite popular, yet a year later, they take it off market for reasons utterly unbeknownst to the consumers who have already come to swear by those makeup products. Like Shiseido’s Creamy Eye Shadow Duo in C1, Blackest Sand. Anyone remember that?

(sources: amazon.com; yahoo! shopping)

Wow, that used to be one of my favorite products. Then one day I walked up to the Shisheido counter asking for this and the lady told me Shiseido no longer makes it. What the–!? Noo!! And that was the same reaction I had to finding out Amaranth Pink was no longer available.

So I had to unload all my boxes of samples and prototypes and find alternative swatches.

Ah, I remember these bags! The faux croc:

Here’s a better snapshot of the material:

Hubby and I disputed this swatch. He likes the faux croc leather a lot. I dislike it for being faux croc. It’s like being a vegetarian and eating that fake meat stuff that’s made out of tofu.

That’s what this material is. It’s a tofu burger seasoned to taste like beef. Faux croc is vegan and synthetic, but intentionally made to imitate the backside of a crocodile. What is up with that?

Well. Hubby likes it, and he thinks it’s marketable. Guess we’ll see, because that’s what we ordered for all the Peripatetics and one Precisionist color option.

(above: previous Peripatetic sample in Lilac; no faux croc here)

Above are the swatch color combinations we picked out for the Peripatetic.

(very first sketch of Precisionist satchel)

Here is a better look at that light green swatch, seen in a first prototype of the Precisionist using the jade green faux croc:

We’re bringing it back, with a few updated design changes. Here’s a glimpse at the updates:

(Precisionist satchel redux)

(image taken from design briefs to factory)

Spot the differences? ;-)

It’s been tough, very tough to go through the painstaking process of choosing swatches and colors, struggle for months with samples making, confirm your swatches and colors for production, and then find out that the swatch color you chose, your favorite out of all of them no less, no longer exists. That then gets exacerbated further with a demanding, high-pressure day job. Day job work has consumed me this summer, which means I haven’t been able to put in the attention that this TZ venture requires. For instance, running due diligence for one of our deals had me up past 1 am yesterday. Forget TZ; I hardly have time for myself.

Ah, but let’s end on a happy note… a kitty pic!

I snapped that photo of him with my phone while sifting through the samples and swatches. Doesn’t it look like he’s saying to me: “You’re doing this…again??”

Posted in Business Development, Collection, Design Conception, Learning Curve, Musings, One Step Closer, Progress | 26 Comments

Swatch Selections Cont’d. & Donating My Hair to Locks of Love

This past week I submitted more color options to my manufacturer. While the above Ambitionist briefcase comes in a traditional solid black, I wanted a fun, colorful option as well. The decision came down between a nude pink versus a lilac. I had produced both before and liked both, though found the lilac one much more popular sales-wise. People say they prefer the pink, but don’t buy it at the same frequency as the lilac for some reason.

We had run out of lilac briefcases before and figured we’d stop producing those to move on to new color options. I decided against that and am back to production of lilac briefcases. =)

We’re going with 2 different textures of vegan leather:

The above is a sheeny, smooth material. The gold and silver swatches, #16 and #18 respectively really show what I mean (though no, I am not making any bags in those colors). The colors we are going with, highlighted with yellow boxes, are more understated but still have that sheen and polish to it. This particular material will be great for the briefcases. The look is very professional and sleek.

The second texture I love, love, love, love, love. It’s uber soft and suede-like, velvety, and just super duper pretty. I’ve challenged many people to feel this material and compare it with genuine leather, and no one has been able to distinguish the difference, not even self-proclaimed fashionistas! Problem with this material is that I can’t use it for the more structured briefcases, so only the totes come in this swatch option.

I did very informal, amateur color blocking to illustrate my color selections for this upcoming purchase order. The amaranth pink looks tacky in my color blocks above, but here is how it actually looks:

Workaholic shoulder tote (above)

Executive satchel brief (above)

And here’s a look into the design business process:

That’s the first page screenshot of a memo I sent to my factory. I organized my color and swatch selections into tables to make it as convenient as possible for the manufacturer. When you first establish a relationship with the factory, each bag style is assigned an SKU (stock-keeping unit) number. For example, my bag styles are numbered SL-2______. Each material selection also has an SKU.

Typically within one account, the first 3 digits of the SKU are the same, so for example when I call up the factory to talk about, say, the Ambitionist briefcase. I won’t say, “And for the Ambitionist in Lilac…” Instead, I’ll say, “For SL-974, in the number 13…” I say “SL” for the letter reference as you see above, and skip the first 3 digits because those 3 digits are the same for every bag under my account.

For lawyers who deal in intellectual property law, it’s similar to how we colloquially refer to patent numbers and trademark registration numbers, mais oui?

Although the descriptions (e.g., Ambitionist, Peripatetic, Catalyst, Executive, etc.) aren’t terribly relevant to the factory or for communicating to the factory, I put it next to every SKU for my own ease of cross-reference. That’s because personally I am terrible, completely utterly awful with numbers. It’s easier for me to remember “Peripatetic in Amaranth Rose” than it is for me to remember a 3-digit number. Seriously! However, for those who are good with numbers, there would probably never be the whole blurb descriptions and all you’d have are the SKUs. I could never do it that way because the numbers would make me dizzy.

So that’s what I’ve been doing TZ venture wise. Thought I’d also add a personal update:

As of last Friday that was how my hair looked. I’ve had long hair as far back as I can remember. (It’s even longer than it appears in the above photos because the front layers are shorter; from the back, the hair falls only a few inches above my waist.) Any time I referred to my hair length as “short,” it meant just below my shoulders. Never before in this lifetime had my hair actually been short enough for you to see the nape of my neck. And I had planned to go blissfully for the rest of my life like so.

Since I have ridiculously thick, coarse hair, long hair has been doubly uncomfortable this summer. When I attempt to wind it up into a bun, the bun itself is the same size as my head. Real attractive, huh? So I decided to get it cut.

Perhaps handbag designing has gotten to me or something, but now I think and plan in terms of thumbnail sketches. Below is the sketch I rendered illustrating what I intended to get done. See, the back nape of my neck would still be fully covered.

Then my cousin suggested that I donate to Locks of Love. The hair donation had to be at least 10 inches long, which is a lot more hair than I had wanted to cut off. Also, I was concerned about my colored chunks. Per the website, it can be dyed hair, but not bleached. I talked to my stylist who regularly does my hair, and she said my hair had not been bleached, just semi-permanently dyed, so it should be fine. Alrightey then.

There’s me post-cut. The length is much shorter than my thumbnail sketch, but that’s because I asked the stylist to cut off more hair to make sure we definitely got in the full 10 inches, 12 if possible. So we went for 12. Yes, a whole foot of hair. Women who prefer their own hair long and have gone their whole lives with long hair like me will be able to commiserate: watching a whole foot of your own hair get lopped off isn’t the easiest thing to do. =X

There’s my hair! Two ponytails. Hmm, looking at your own hair packaged away in plastic bags on a table is rather creepy.

“Before” and “After” photos:

There’s me with glasses. My mother’s signature hairstyle is a short bob, longer in front, and she wears glasses; so everyone, from my husband to both my sisters and my brother-in-law have remarked my uncanny resemblance to my mother now that my hair basically looks like hers. Sigh.

The shortest layer is 10 inches, with most of it approximately 15 inches, though with those split ends, I just hope it’s still usable! Eeks.

I am definitely going through a readjustment period. =)  Just as people warned me, I squeeze out wayyy too much shampoo and conditioner when washing and even brushing my hair has been different. I woke up this morning, sleepy-headed, and on automatic, grabbed my hairbrush, started at the top and applied the normal force to get the normal acceleration I need to shove a brush through what is typically the wild, wild jungle that is my hair every morning. But I painfull scraped my neck instead. Ouch! Now I was awake. I blinked and looked at my reflection and realized I had no more hair to brush. Haha. Oh dear.

Posted in Business Development, Collection, Design Conception, Learning Curve, Musings, One Step Closer, Personal, Progress, Sketches SW | 24 Comments

Zipper Head Selections, Delays, & What I Do For Leisure

Yikes, it’s been over a month since I updated this blog. Well we finally received the confirmation samples only to discover new egregious issues, and so once again production is being delayed. This time, it’s the zipper heads, among other problems.

I feel like everything that could go wrong has gone wrong in this startup TZ venture. We were so close to finalizing everything like five months ago and then… as bad luck would have it, let’s just say our entire file at the factory disappeared. It was a horrid situation I’d rather not get into, but bottom line, we had to reinvent our wheel, again.

Ah, but that is not what this post is about. This post is about zipper heads! How fun!

Here was our original zipper head selection. Never mind the hanging thingie I have tied to my purse. I think it’s an Asian girl thing. We need to have cute little hanging thingie doodads jingling off our handbags. Anyway, we were okay with this zipper head and were ready to go forward. Then… we discovered the source of these zipper heads disappeared and we could no longer use them.

So then zipper head #2 came along:

Looks nice enough, though you can’t hang cute little hanging thingie doodads off these zipper heads. Oh well. That wasn’t even the worst of the problems. The joints on those zipper heads kept jamming. The zipper head would bend where you see that joint and then get stuck at odd angles. What a pain. There was no way we’d go with these zipper heads. Zipper heads that got stuck were unacceptable. Period.

So the factory sent us a bunch of zipper head samples to select from.

Above is our final zipper head selection. Pretty, isn’t it? And it’s cute-little-hanging-thingie-doodads-friendly.

As for our confirmation samples, some came out decent, like the Catalyst briefcase in dark chocolate brown.

With one compartment for a laptop and the other for case files and an easy-access back zip pocket for wallet, keys, and maybe my lip gloss and compact, this is totally a brief I’d carry to work!

Other samples… came out not so decent…

The above pics are top views of the Precisionist satchel. Egads, what is that? I e-mailed those photos to the factory with nothing more than the following question: From one consumer to another, would you buy this bag?

Our factory then said the problem was attributed to the material we selected. (Um, couldn’t have told us this before we went ahead with confirmation samples production that took 3 months, eh?) We had little choice but to grit our teeth, say thanks, and choose new material.

I’m undeniably generalizing here, but one difference I’ve noticed in customer service between the East (where my bags are made) and the West (where I live, where I was raised) is in the East, they’ll take your instruction literally without question. If I sent them a sketch of a bag with hot poker rods jutting out of it, I would get back a bag with hot poker rods jutting out of it.

Here in the West, pre-production I might get a polite, albeit meek reply from the factory, “Ma’am, are you sure you want hot poker rods jutting out of the bag? I just want to make sure, because typically that might be considered a safety hazard…” That final step of common sense just doesn’t happen in Asia.

My point in all that is this: when the factory saw the softer material I chose and saw the stiff, structured design of the Precisionist satchel, it should have alerted me, “Wait a minute, this is not going to work out.” Instead, they shrugged and went forward and that’s why I got back the confirmation sample with the bunching– because that design required a stiffer material, and the soft suede-like material I picked wasn’t going to fly. Sure, it’s absolutely my mistake. No doubt. But everybody would have saved 3 months of time had the factory bothered to point that out to me before they went forward with production. S’all I’m saying.

Anyway. So now we’re waiting. Again. We’ve picked new materials and are now hoping the new materials will be the solution to the bunching you see on the Precisionist above and now have to wait for more confirmation samples with the new materials to be made.

That means not much to do this summer except wait. And wait. And wait. And expect more delays to come. Hence, not much to update on this blog.

So what have I been doing all summer to pass the time?

Painting. And hanging them up all around our new home. Hubby and I recently moved to a bigger place, in part so we could have more storage space for this TZ venture. I love modern genres of art, like surrealism and pop art. The above left painting I’ve titled “Revenge of the Hairless Kitties” and the above right is “Pulchritude,” both 15″ x 15″. Not sure if you can tell, but the woman on the right is wearing Alexander McQueen. =)

Here’s a close-up on my favorite painting so far, the “Revenge” one:

My little sister’s remark to me regarding the above painting: “Is that a pink turkey floating in the sky?”

No. No it is not a pink turkey floating in the sky. Gosh darn it.

The above left, “The Hunted” (16″ x 20″) was the first painting I did, meaning first painting in decades. I think the last time I picked up a paintbrush and dipped it into acrylics was high school, for a required art class. So it’s been a while. =X I was inspired by various fairytales while painting that one. The above right I’ve titled “Ambition.”

I am currently working on a final painting to round out my summer paintings project. It’s my last canvas. I haven’t figured out what I’ll paint in the foreground yet, but that’s the New York City skyline. And no, that is not a sunset, but rather a nuclear fission bomb that just went off and is about to mushroom. No idea why my paintings veer toward the dark.

We’re now waiting on a final round of confirmation samples to be completed. Which will finish first, the above NYC skyline painting or the final round of confirmation samples? Sigh, at the rate we’ve been going, my bets are on the NYC skyline painting. C’est la vie.

Posted in Business Development, Learning Curve, One Step Closer, Personal, Progress, Sketches SW | 12 Comments

Our Purse Hook Samples are Here!

About a year ago from this date, I dreamt of Taryn Zhang purse hooks, and even blogged photoshopped renditions of what a Taryn Zhang purse hook might look like. (Sooo glad the actual ones look better than my photoshopped renditions…) There was also this post that disclosed some of the conception and design processes behind making a purse hook.

It’s real now. I’ve got samples of Taryn Zhang purse hooks sitting on my desk. In the above photo you can see my sketched out idea for the design that I sent to the factory and then the actual sample purse hook they sent back to me. These little guys are made in Taiwan. I’m Taiwanese American. So my purse hooks getting made in Taiwan means something poignant to me. Doing business in Taiwan has been a joy. The factory is prompt, candid, provides exceptional customer service, and we talk off-business a lot about the differences between growing up in Taiwan and growing up in the States.

The top of the medallion (the darker circle part) is black nickel plated. For the geeks among us, and I’m certainly one of them, here’s a quick wiki on nickel electroplating. When I first started design of these, I wanted black nickel because I thought they looked prettier and assumed that wear resistance and corrosion protection would be the same as the pure nickel plates (which are silver, rather than the darker metallic tone). So I chose black nickel plating because I like the darker tone look. However, after more research, it seems like the pure nickel plating is more durable, with better wear resistance and corrosion protection than the black nickel plating. Now I have to figure out a way to quantify the trade-off and determine whether I want to go with the black nickel or the pure nickel.

Overall, I love these purse hook medallions. They’re small and compact. The medallion is less than 2 inches in diameter and less than 0.5 inches in thickness. They’ll tuck away quite nicely in a clutch or small evening purse, and yet they hold 10 pounds, so you can hang any one of the TZ briefcases and even the weekender off this thing and it’ll do. (Though I wouldn’t advise that you hang it with your laptop computer or law school casebooks in the bag… 10 pounds isn’t that much!)

The little stick part connected to and jutting out of the medallion pulls out, and then slips back into the circle when you store it away. Also, the stem part that wraps around the medallion (or whatever you’re supposed to call it) is magnetic, and will cling to the medallion nicely when the hook is not in use. If you feel one of these things in your hands, you’d note they’re heavy, quite sturdy, and are of better quality than a lot of the medallion-type purse hooks that are sold on the general market.

That said, I don’t like how the black nickel part smudges. Brush a thumb across the medallion and CSI would be like, “Bingo. This is too easy. Run it through AFIS now!” I believe there is a coating we can apply to the purse hooks so that they don’t smudge and take fingerprints as easily, but the catch is two-fold: the coating would take away from the elegant sheen that you see now on the medallion (probably not that discernible in these photos, sorry) and also I’m sure the chemicals for such a coating aren’t happy stuff. I kind of like how the purse hooks right now are au naturale. I am also one of those OCD personality types and would literally go nuts every time I saw fingerprint smudges on the medallion. So that’s another trade-off I need to consider. Happy green sustainability or my sanity… haha, for anyone into logical fallacies, what a false dilemma I’ve presented myself with there.

The biggest bag in our debut collection is the Peripatetic weekender tote (see above). I suspended a reasonably filled Peripatetic, with the heavy chains of the detachable shoulder strap attached, and suspended it with the purse hook to see how it’d do. There are several file folders, notebooks, my Kindle, makeup bag, and typical stuff women have in their purses currently inside that Peripatetic and yet it hung quite securely off the hook. I wouldn’t bat the bag around while it’s on the hook, but as long as you don’t kick at it or beat it about, your purse will stay off the ground.

No clue how I ever dined out before without bringing along a purse hook! These things are fantastic! We haven’t figured out exactly how we’ll be packaging the purse hooks yet. Are we going to sell them separately? Are they going to come with every purchase of a bag? Should they come in pretty little boxes? Or drawstring velvet pouches? These are business questions for Hubby to decide on. =) Sigh… our work here is never done. Ever.

Posted in Business Development, Design Conception, Learning Curve, One Step Closer, Progress | 25 Comments

Progress Report: (More) Final Tweaks

Last week was intense. I keep feeling like I’ve bitten off more than I can chew. In any case, I’ve been working closely with our factory to finalize the confirmation samples. Confirmation samples are the final samples that a factory makes for you (usually on the house, and you don’t pay for these, unless you get unreasonable and start asking for too many redos) using the correct material, in the correct color swatches, correct linings, with all design elements finalized. You the designer would get one confirmation sample and the factory keeps one. Then mass production begins and the idea is every piece produced needs to be an exact replica of your confirmation sample. The factory would be obligated to correct and replace any pieces given to you that deviate from that confirmation sample. Ergo, confirmation samples are pretty darn important.

Currently we are at the halfway mark of finalizing our confirmation samples. The above chart I slapped together in MS Paint is intimidating. I feel like I have done so, so, so much work, and yet look where I am at in terms of progress! It’s not like “Shipment/Customs” is the end of the road either… because as you know, that’s the BEGINNING! Once I get the first round of inventory, then my real work BEGINS! Sales, marketing, publicity, all of that. Heaven almighty… anyway, let’s just focus on the now. Confirmation samples. Here’s what’s going on:

The left box above shows one final tweak on the Precisionist satchel. The sample that came back had 90 degree bottom corners, in other words the silhouette is essentially a rectangle. However I wanted a more angled shape, at 85 degrees. 90 to 85 doesn’t seem like a big difference, but oh my, it is!

We’re also adding purse feet to the Workaholic. See above right box.

I was going to change the angles on the Executive satchel brief also (pictured above, left-most image), but decided to leave it as-is. You can’t see the drop down handles, but the Executive will have cool  drop down handles along with the detachable shoulder strap pictured. =)

I put a question mark next to the Workaholic bag because I have no idea where that color came from. We ordered production of this bag in black and light pink. One of the confirmation samples that came back to us was that really bizarre pomegranate color.

So guess there was some sort of mix-up with the color swatches with somebody else’s account. Oh well. In any case, they assembled the above to give me an idea of what the bag would look like in the pink swatch I had chosen.

Below, you can see the same pink swatch on the Ambitionist briefcase:

The Ambitionist briefcase is by far the most functional bag for a professional, as is the Catalyst briefcase. These are great laptop bags, great for work if your office calls for “corporate conservative” wear, and naturally organizes file folders if you’re carrying a bunch of them on the go. We redesigned the handles to make the Ambitionist much sturdier. I decided to keep the long shoulder length handles, along with the detachable shoulder strap. The snapshot to the right above is not of the Ambitionist interior; it’s the Catalyst interior, though the compartments in both bags are the same.

Above is a snapshot of the Catalyst briefcase… without the TZ metal logo plate-thing. We had a bit of a complication during production and now we need to remake the metal logo plate molds. We’re currently waiting on the molds, so in the meantime, none of the samples have logo plates. =(

In our purchase order, I requested the Peripatetic (left above) bag to be in pink with dark brown as the accent color, and the Ambitionist (right above) bag to be in pink with black as the accent color. In the initial set of confirmation samples offered, I think there was yet another mix-up, and the Peripatetic came in pink and black, and the Ambitionist came in pink and dark brown. So that had to be clarified to the factory.

I do not know why, but as it is with samples production, when you change one detail here, something inadvertently gets changed over there. That’s just how it goes down… every time. The first photo above shows what I requested: add a patch to the center of the Peripatetic bag, but the patch would be in the same color as the main color of the bag (pink bag gets pink patch, green bag gets green patch, etc.).

However, the sample that came back had a dark patch instead. For all the patches, they used the darker accent color rather than the lighter main color. I was about to ask for it to be changed back to the lighter main color, but now I’m not so sure. Hubby prefers the patch as the darker accent color. This is still being debated.

Above is a snapshot of the Peripatetic in a very light jade green color being made (not done yet, as you can see). The samples worker is holding the bag up to show how it looks with those two columns in the dark accent color rather than the light main color. My specs had shown the two columns to be in the light main color.

So now I have a decision to make. Insist on the columns being the light main color, or agree to the change to the dark accent color. Depending on my mood, I keep changing my mind on which I prefer.

So above is an illustrated chart of all the possible options for the Peripatetic. “A” is the original design I spec-ed. “B” in pink is what came back for the pink bag. “C” in green is what came back for the green bag. “D” is me wondering if — assuming we go with the dark columns — if the bag would also look better with dark shoulder handles rather than light.

Hubby votes “B.” I still like “A” but am not sure. “C” for green looks kind of okay, except the color balance between the handles and the columns would be off, so I’m wondering if one prefers “C” with the darker columns, then wouldn’t in fact “D” be better, with better color balance?

Anyway. That’s my progress update. We’re also working on the dust bags, the purse hangers, figuring out exactly what we want to do about packaging, and finalizing all the other miscellaneous elements that are part and parcel to launching your own line.

Posted in Design Conception, Learning Curve, One Step Closer, Progress | 20 Comments